July 29 - One More Museum

Our last full day in Mexico City.

What did I notice?

We made our way to Chapultepec Castle for one last museum tour.  A long, tree-lined pathway took us to the entrance of the Castle.  A trolley passed us, full of tourists on their way up.  Reaching the top of the hill we entered the gates of the castle. Circling around the castle is a patio with views of the city below, tainted only by the smog that fogged over the buildings.  Standing on the checkered tiles of the patio, we looked out to see the monument of soldiers marking the entrance of Chapultepec Park, the beginning of the Avenue Reforma.  This road shoots straight through the city, making a clear pathway to the historical center.

We wondered from ornate room to room, observing the lifestyles of the historic Maximiliano and Porfirio.  After 30 days of museums, I had a little trouble absorbing some of the details, but still enjoyed imaging the lives of these dynamic rulers and their wives.

A view of Reforma 

Surrounding the Castle

A portion of a mural inside the Castle

From the castle, we made our way to our farewell lunch.  As usual, we were fed an incredible meal of sopa de lima, chile relleno, pescado, and a fruit salad.  This time our meal began an afternoon of sharing our appreciation of the people we've met and the experiences we've had.  It's comforting to hear how all of us will go back to our classrooms and implement what we have learned.  In addition, we shared how our general understandings of Mexico have changed.

July 28 - All in a Day

I was trying to come up with a theme to encompass our day: a boat ride through the causeways of Xochimilco on a traditional trajinera (boat), visiting Dolores Olmedo's museum (jackpot of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera art), visiting Frida Kahlo's Casa Azul (Yes, blue house), and taking salsa dance lessons.  In the end, it was a day that exemplified one of the themes of our trip: Understanding the diverse sides of Mexico.

What did I notice? 

Xochimilco - vibrantly colored flat boats, our silent guide slowly pushing our boat down the river

Mexico-style vending meets water = boats full of mariachis offering to play, boats with people selling freshly grilled corn, businesses hopping onto our boat to display a blanket or necklace we may want to buy

Mariachis on Water

Trajineras waiting for launch

Frida, Frida, Frida - I admit that I am not always drawn to all of her work, but walking through the blue house and reading her complete story pulled me into the raw emotion of her paintings more than ever.  

What connections did I make?

Four of us decided to take on the art of salsa dancing at a local venue that offered group lessons before open salsa dancing.  We fell into the back row of want-to-be dancers to discover that the rows rotated so that we would end up in front soon enough.  I felt confident with the basic step.  However, it turns out that there are a lot of other moves I was not familiar with in the land of salsa dancing.  It also turns out that learning to dance in a second language is much more difficult than in a first language.  This may seem obvious, but it was a really good reminder to me of how much more I had to concentrate when I had to depend only on what I saw for much of the lesson.  I couldn't help but think about how much energy some of our students who are learning English must put forth every day.  Feeling completely inept, they lined us up, women paired with men, and started shouting salsa moves at us.  I have to say that my rotating partners were incredibly kind and forgiving of my lack of skills.  

July 27 - Changing Crowds

Last night was Luche Libre and tonight was the Ballet Folklorico at the Palacio de Belles Artes.  I love the quick shift we made from cheering, masked fans surrounding a wrestling rink to a dressed up audience filing into the seats in front of a stage of dancers.

What did I notice?
The Ballet Folklorico tells the history of Mexico with music and dance.  Audience participation is encouraged with clapping, foot stomping, "hay, hay" shouting, and whistling.  A mariachi band, guitars, harps, drums, and the ever-present marimba change the mood of the different songs.

And...I need to go to bed, so I'll leave with a few images for now.

I Heart D.F.

Today we walked to the historical zocolo of Mexico City, and I was happy.  Standing at the center of the world's second largest city square I was surrounded by the National Palace with Diego Rivera's murals, the sinking Cathedral next to the rising Aztec ruins, and tourists watching the native Aztec dancers in the center of the action.  How could I ignore the energy that surrounded me?

What did I notice?

The National Palace - Though this was my second visit to the palace where the walls are filled with story-telling murals created by Diego Rivera, my new understanding of the history of Mexico brought me new appreciation to the historical murals.  The repeating faces of Hernan Cortez changing in one mural, the numerous appearances of corn, and the newspapers with the headlines of "Tierra y Libertad" (Land and Liberty) all have more meaning to me now.  Rivera's ability to tell a country's stories through art and the ability for us to stand in front of that art is inspiring.

A section of one of Rivera's murals at the National Palace

The Templo Mayor Aztec Ruins with the National Cathedral in the background

Lucha Libre - After an inspiring day downtown, I stepped into a contemporary arena of a different sort.  Our group made our way to a lucha libre event (picture WWF/E wrestling).   The anti-violent feminist in me wanted to resist the idea, but I willingly admit that I had a great time.  We chanted with the crowd as the characters took the stage.  The violence that I feared turned out to be more of a gymnastics, acting, and acrobatic combination of men and women jumping, twisting, and flipping at each other.  I allowed myself to laugh heartily as the men and women came out in their capes, masks, and exaggerated personalities.

Masked at Lucha Libre with fellow-teachers, Kate, Christina, and Heather

July 25 - Round Two

My friend, Lauren, taught me the game called: Pretend You're Falling Off the Ruins and Take a Picture.   Now, I can't help but incorporate it into my ruins experiences. 

A few connections...
Ten years ago I took class in Mexico City with a group of students from Concordia.  Today I found myself posing for pictures that I took that summer.  I snapped a shot of the clocks at the Basilica of Guadalupe, I took my turn standing on top of a pyramid at Teotihuacan, and then I smiled for a photo at a cave transformed into a restaurant.

What did I notice?

The Basilica of Guadalupe - For the second time, I was drawn to the cross made up of a variety of clocks.  Bells tolling, Roman numerals, an Aztec calendar, a Sundial.
I spent more time looking at all of the pictures of the Virgen of Guadelupe throughout the two cathedrals and other small shrines.  This trip has confirmed for me the power of this symbol.  People in the community of Chamula worshiped Guadelupe, festivals in Xico honored Guadelupe, and people in Mexico City adorn the largest cathedral with images of her.  I am starting to understand why people call themselves Guadelupan as much as Catholic in Mexico.

Cross of Time

Teotihuacan - Ok.  This is the 6th archeological ruins site I've visited this month.  That's a lot of pyramids and ball courts.  Yet, I wouldn't have given up my second visit to this expansive site.  I think its the orientation of Teotihuacan that puts it near the top of my ruins experiences.  The Sun pyramid is positioned to face the east and west and the Moon Pyramid is perpendicular on the north end of what appears to be a long lane between smaller pyramids.  Trudging up the steep steps of the sun pyramid brings on a rush caused from the numerous steps, the multitude of people, and the inspiring views.  While I could do without the sometimes overwhelming vendors, I was glad to squeeze another pyramid hike into our trip.  

Pyramid of the Moon

July 24 - To The City

What did I notice? 
The Astrobus has become a second home for our group this month.  I loaded the bus this morning, greeted our steadfast driver, Benito, and made my way to my typical seat in the back.  Everybody has marked their territory in one fashion or another.  Jennifer pins her recent croqueting projects on her seat.  Heather has a towel that has been "drying" for a couple of weeks over the seat.  I have my favorite hoody and rain coat ready for use.  Today was our longest journey, from Oaxaca to Mexico City.  We followed our typical journey routine: Jaques makes announcements about our day before we all snuggle into our sweatshirts to fall asleep for the first leg of the trip.  Soon, Jaques decides it is time for us to learn more and plays a Carlos Fuentes movie, a documentary, or music related to our destination.  We all catch up on our journaling, reading, or project designs for a while.  I'm in the high-frequency section of the bus because I am by the snacks and the bus-size resource library for all of us to use as we are working on our projects.  Near the end of the ride, the back of the bus moves into restless mode.  We dig in the snack box, play ridiculous games, laugh at things that probably aren't that funny, and read aloud from the Lonely Planet about our next destination.

Today's travels were broken up by a lunch in Puebla.  We dined in the wine cellar of an old flour mill turned restaurant.  My bus attire made me feel underdressed for our setting.  We sat at a long wooden table, wine racks surrounding us in the dim light.  We began our meal with appetizers of ant eggs and fried worms. Even as I am typing this I squirm a little. Feeling like I shouldn't let opportunities pass, I quickly ate a small bite of both.  The idea of what I put in my mouth was quickly washed down with a red wine and hearty meal.

Challenged and nourished, we reloaded the bus for the final stretch to Mexico City.

Ant Eggs...with a little guacamole 

July 23 - A Little Adventure

Today was our "free" day in Oaxaca.  Kate (fellow runner / teacher) and I decided to take the opportunity to find a little adventure.  For 200 pesos (less than twenty American dollars) we were geared up with mountain bikes, helmets, a bike lock, and a map with a great route from Oaxaca, to the Monte Alban Ruins, to the small town of San Antonio Arrazola, and back.

What did I notice?
I now understand why the ruins are called Monte Alban (White Mountain).  Our journey out of Oaxaca started comfortably.  We made our way out of town and began our ascent.  At first, we commented on the incredible view of Oaxaca below us.  Soon the hills quieted our conversation, leaving the noise of our shifting gears.  We occasionally pulled over to check the map, drink some water, and note our increasing heart rates.  As I was staring down at my pumping legs a man ran past us and amiably offered up a, "poca a poca" (little by little).   A little over an hour into our ride, we rolled into the parking lot for the Monte Alban ruins.  After a little granola bar break, we made our way into the Ancient Zapotec capital.  At first, the ruins seemed to be like many of the other archeological visits we have made, but when we reached the top pyramid we realized what made this location different.  Climbing to the peak of the pyramids allowed us to see mountains lowering in all directions.   The view was worth the journey.

The rest of our journey really was downhill, but offered some of its own adventures.  We turned off on a river basin road to head to the small town of Arrazola.  Trees shaded the road of red sand as we pushed forward, skidding through corroded sections of the road.  Thank you mountain bikes.   We stopped to ask a man with two oxen if we were heading in the right direction.  Soon we were in the town where we each contributed to the economy by buying one of the small, boldly colored animals.

We got back on our bikes for our last stretch of the journey. A steady descent took us quickly into the city traffic and smog of Oaxaca.  We pedaled into the bike shop five hours after we left, tired, hungry, a little sun-burned and very satisfied.

At the Ancient Zapotec Capital Monte Alban (White Mountain)

Navigation

Our Map...Some sections of our journey were clearer than others. 

July 22 - Weaving their Way

Today I experienced another empowering community at a women’s cooperative in Teotitlan del Valle, a village outside of Oaxaca.

What did I observe?

• The process of creating rugs:  Brushing out sheep wool, changing it to yarn using a spindle, crushing plants to make natural dyes for the yarn, making the yarn into  wool
• Women telling their stories of changing a community by taking on a recycling initiative, planting trees, selling their rugs, and forming a cooperative together
• A traditional healing process:  Scents of rosemary and incense, the brushing of leaves on my shoulders, oil on leaves in my hands

Learning how to brush out the wool from an expert

Indigo

July 21 - Defining Community

Today was an intense day of discussions around three of my favorite topics: education, politics, and community. 

Our day started with a lecture at the Center for Intercultural Encounters and Dialogue (CEDI)with Oliver Froehling.  CEDI offers an alternative education for students. The school program focuses on meeting individual needs through apprenticeships and teaching students skills that they can take back to their communities and use. The reasons for the school: 1. Acknowledgement that traditional education has often tried to force assimilation.  2. There is not an economic stability to provide jobs for graduates of traditional school in Mexico. 

Our discussion also focused on the indigenous communities throughout Oaxaca and the political and educational systems within those communities.  The way that the word “community” is used for many of the municipalities throughout Oaxaca has a much larger meaning than when the word is often used in America.  For example, the fiesta is all about reciprocity and solidarity.  When somebody has a celebration, people contribute to the celebration and it is known that the contributions will be reciprocated in the future.  The power of the communities as groups allows the indigenous communities to put pressure on political groups.  The strength of community seems to be part of identity in this state, the site of the 2006 teachers union protests that lasted from June until November.  

The discussion exemplified several questions that I often have about education.

What questions do I have?

In what ways might federalized education damage communities?  Is the system of education at CEDI a more realistic ideology of education for students in the U.S., as well? What are we preparing students for?  Are we preparing students for livelihood, critical thinking, a job market that may not exist?  (Calm down, Rollag, I know.) Where does creativity fit into all of this?  

Stop 2 for the Day:  The Market.  Yes!  I went ahead and ate from vendors. 

Stop 3: Our group went to Olllin Tlahtoalli Language and Culture Center to learn about a program in indigenous communities throughout Oaxaca. The program uses art and media narrative to give students a chance to tell their stories and connect with their history.  

What connections did I make?

This stop was a little emotional for me as we heard students telling stories that are similar to stories of some of my own students.  A video showed two students who were born in America, but their parents were at risk for being deported, so the entire family moved back to Mexico.  Now, the students talked about the struggle of not fitting into the schools in Mexico.  They were considered outsiders in the US and are now considered outsiders in Mexico.  They plan to go back to the US and live with an aunt so that they can continue their American education.  Their parents are torn between wanting to be with their children and wanting to give them what they believe is the best opportunities.  Ugh.  

In addition, I connected to the ways that the students told their stories through paintings.  Working with seventh graders means that I always get to hear students tell and sort out stories of their identity.  

Letting Go - After an intense day, I joined some friends to take in Oaxaca.  We stumbled upon a restaurant that featured local Oaxacan specialties of mole and cheese.  From there, we headed to the Zocolo in time to catch an incredible light show projected on the side of the Cathedral with a music background.  I felt incredibly fortunate.  

Light Show on the side of the Basilica 

July 20 - All Terrain

What did I notice?

To Oaxaca:  Early on in our trip we were told that when Spanish explorer, Cortez, was asked to describe Mexico, he crumpled up a piece of paper, threw it on the table, and said, “That is New Spain.”  Today’s bus ride from Puebla to Oaxaca confirmed Cortez’s description.  I fell asleep as we left the tiled streets of Puebla and awoke to hills building their way into mountains on both sides of our bus.  Smooth overlapping hills ran into rugged cactus filled mountains.  Our road sliced through tree covered land and clay colored dirt.  

We pulled into Oaxaca and began our exploration of this city known for its textiles, markets, and crafts.  Since I’m not the biggest shopper, I was skeptical.  However, walking through a pedestrian street filled with contemporary and ancient art combinations pulled me in.  Vibrantly colored wooden animals and rows of woven blankets and rugs have already caught my eye.  Sigh. 

Our walk took us to Santo Domingo’s church and the Museo de Las Culturas that is connected to it.  The thick walls, long hallways, and large arches of the former monastery provide a beautiful background for the historical time-line in the museum.  I confess that I was drawn to one of the great windows looking out to the courtyard in front of the church.  A parade of decorated women and larger than life puppets danced their way up to the courtyard bringing a band of musicians and a following of people with them.  I spent a long time watching the celebration that is only the beginning of the upcoming celebration of solidarity.  

Bibbed up for Oaxaca's famous mole sauce

A view from the monastery museum

A celebration in front of the Church

July 19 - Work Bound

Today was a day of contrasting experiences: a morning tour of the Talavera de Uriarte (pottery) and and afternoon in Tlapanala talking with locals about migration and education programs in their community.

What did I notice?

Talavera de Uriarte: This morning we walked into a high-ceiling room filled with the blue and white tiles, dishes, and pots of Talavera.  The recent owner of the company founded in 1824 took us through each step of the patented process to make the pottery: the mixing of two clays, drying it, stenciling a pattern, painting it, firing it, glazing it, and continually checking for flaws.  With each step we encountered artisans carefully molding the clay, patiently examining the work, or steadily adding paint.  The care of the process was evident and the results were beautiful.  

What questions did I have? 

While employees of the company have remained the same and the products have maintained patterns and processes, the economical structure of the company has to change as global and local markets change.  Will this company be able to keep its identity with families of artisans while meeting the needs of a changing market? 

Stages of Creation

In Process

To Tlapanal: 

This afternoon, our bus left Pueblo and lurched its way down an uneven and narrow road, leading us to the town of Tlapanal.  As our bus pulled to a stop children in black polo school shirts huddled toward us with their parents close behind.  We were greeted with waves and hugs as we found a place under a large tree to talk.  The afternoon started with formal introductions and time for all of us to send questions back and forth across the groups.   Soon, we walked to one of the farms nearby so that some of the students could tell us about one of the programs in their community.  The students are learning to feed and take care of chickens, providing food for their families and knowledge about businesses.  They proudly showed off their successful chickens, feeding and watering system, and eggs.  We also learned about a program that is being started for the students to raise their own vegetables.  We made our way back to a cinder block structure which is being re-built for a children’s library.  We were treated to chocolatey, home-made mole sauce and corn-wrapped Tamales.  Sitting next to farmers in the community and women who worked with the children’s programs, our conversations quickly picked up.  

Over the course of the afternoon I spent quite a bit of time talking to two different men about the time  they spent migrating back-and-forth to the U.S. for work.  My two new friends told me about the necessity of making the risky journey to America for work.  When I asked them about their perfect English speaking skills, they told me about classes they took at the end of long days of hard work to learn the language.  Both of them were glad to return to their home communities and families but found it difficult to return with so few options for work.  Our conversations covered family, farming, education, and a few jokes about Minnesota.  I was humbled by the sense of community and hospitality we were shown.  

Sharing a Meal

July 18 - Still Learning

Today our bus took us from Cuetzalan to the city of Puebla.  We made a brief stop at the 5 de Mayo Battle site and continued on to the University of the Americas in Cholula, a suburb of Puebla.  While at the University we heard a lecture from Dr. Alison Lee on Mexican Identity and migration.  While I don’t have incredible pictures from today’s lecture, my mind is full of new ideas, questions and connections.  Here are just a few thoughts. 

What connections did I make?

Dr. Lee talked a lot about the ways that different ethnicities and classes have been portrayed in Mexico over time.  She showed us casta (caste) paintings created in the 17th and 18th century that depicted pictures of the way people of different social rankings looked or were “supposed” to look.  She then showed us a painting of the post revolution era that depicted the idea of a Cosmic race which was the idea of the mixing of ethnicities to make a perfect group of people.  The problem with a Cosmic race is that there is still an elimination of diversity.  It’s interesting that this was happening the same time that the idea of a “pure” race was happening in Europe and America.  Anyway, she went on to talk about how this class system is still alive in visual representations like the media today in Mexico.  All of that being said, I couldn’t help but think about the media literacy unit that we teach in seventh grade Language Arts at our school.  The visual representations and exclusion of ethnicities and classes is something that we talk about in my class in Minnesota.  While I know that there are differences between the source of the messages and even the specific media messages differ, I think the struggle to find the meaning of identity within media is interesting to think about across the board.  

What questions do I have?

I teach my students about media literacy so that they are aware of the power of media.  I understand that lack of understanding and a desire for power or a sense of nationalism can be the source of the idea of defining societal roles. However, I have to go back to the question: How did these ideas of ethnic, gender, and class roles permeate a society at the time?  What were the means of sending that message?  Who was questioning that message as it was being sent?  

The site of the battle of 5 de Mayo had a lot of graffiti.  I found the cactus graffiti to be creative.

Site of the battle of Cinco de Mayo (not Mexican Independence day) where the Mexican army defeated the much larger French army.  The defeat didn't last long; the French military came back to defeat the Mexican army the following year.  

July 17: Strolling the Market

Today is our first official day off on our trip, and the day has passed at a leasurely pace.  The rain in Cuetzalan finally stopped this morning as we made our way out to the markets for which this town is known.

What have I noticed?

Like many farmers markets, this is a place for the senses.  The smells, the waves of people passing, and the voices offering prices blended together.  Rows of herbs and vegatables tempted me with their vibrant colors and crisp, fresh smells of mint, pepper, cilantro, and something I can't name.  I forced myself to walk past carts of more sweet bread and fried bananas.  Women walked past us with bouquets of the fresh flowers from the bundles sold on each corner.  I instinctively stepped back from the tied up turkey vultures, the carts of chickens, and the head of the pig hanging from a string.  My favorite moment happened as I was purchasing my first tortilla cloth.  I turned around to see a man inches from my face begin singing.  He grinned at my two friends and I and sang, ''Ellas mas bonitas del mundo.  Ellas mas inteligentes del mundo''. (Most beautiful girls of the world.  Most intelligent girls of the world.)  I couldn't stifle my giggles, and I couldn't resist giving him a few pesos. 

On to watch the Women's World Cup in a restaurant...

The Streets of Cuetzalan

Fresh fruit and veggies at the farmer's market

July 16 - Cantona Climb

I am at an internet cafe where I can't load my pictures, so for now my words will need to be enough. 

What did I notice?

Cantona (a recently excavated site that was inhabited between teh years 600 and 1000): Cantona might be considered the athlete's choice for an archeological site with 24 different ball courts in a sophisticated city layout.

We ambled our way up hallway-like rock paths, the walls of rocks standing firmly on each side of us.  We passed ball courts with stadium style seating.  At the end of each ball court we climbed the steep steps, reaching the summit of the pyramid only to find another ball court stretching out before us.  Standing on top of each pyramid we looked out to the desolate, city skeleton.  The expansive paths and courts sprawled out over the land, sprinkled with Dr. Seuss style tress sprouting up like mushrooms and an occasional tourist hiking up another set of steps.  Fields covered the land between the edges of the anciet city and the mountains in the distance.

Jennifer and Kate climbing at Cantona

Cantona

A little group yoga after our climb

Next: Cuetzalan

What did I notice?

For the archeological site we made our way to Cuetzalan.  I think the Lonely Planet Guide was right when they called this drive exhilarating and dramatic.  Several members of our group reached for the dramamamine as we bumped our way over potholes and swerved our way from one sharp turn to the next in the rain.  Our bus driver, Benito, is amazing.

We landed at our cabin-style hotel.  It feels a little bit like we're at camp with the rustic wood-filled room.  The rain continued to poor, so my new friends Christina, Kate, and I grabbed our umbresllas and ventured into the hilly streets.  As the rain started to pick up we took a risk, trying the next restaurant we saw.  We walked inside a gated area to find a large restaurant beginning to fill with people.  The tables were decorated in brightly colored table clothes, rustic art was on the walls, and the rain continued to pound down outside of the windows - simply squares cut out of the walls.  We enjoyed a ight meal with Coronas while a musician played guitar and sang.  It was clear that we were the only non-locals as everybody else knew all of the words to all of the sons.  After enjoying our enchilads and quesadillas, we raced back to our hotel in the rain, satisfied with our first night in this town tucked in the side of the mountain.

July 15 - Sensory Overload

I often tell my students to write using a lot of imagery;  I remind them to tap into all five senses.  Today visits to a coffee plantation and the village of Xico tapped into all of my senses.  

What did I notice? 

El Cafe-tal Coffee Plantation - There is a part of me that wants to run away and beg my new friends at this coffee plantation to give me a job.  Everything about El Cafe-tal feels warm and welcoming. We walked into the rushing smell of coffee beans and soon found a small, warm cup in our own hands.  No sugar required for this coffee.  We sat on potato-style filled sacks among the coffee plants and learned about the process of turning the little red beans from the plants into coffee.  Our guides explained how the plantation prides itself on quality over quantity, focusing on environmentally friendly growing practices and quality of plants as we walked through each stage of the process.  We chewed on some freshly roasted coffee beans and lingered with our second cup of coffee, noticing the sweet and rich flavors.  We were then led to a small studio between the green plants and coffee roasters.  There, one of our guides, Fernando, sat down to a grand piano to play some Chopin, Debussy, and some of his own compositions for us.  I left with a lot of coffee and a feeling of contentment about being at a place where the people were so genuine and kind.  

It was also discovered that Christina W. and I both shop at REI,
we have been wearing the same skirt, and we have the same bag.  

Xico, celebrating festivities of the local patron, Saint Maria Magdalena - Our evening took us to Xico where our bus could barely fit under the decorations that ran from building to building across the streets.  The community is in the midst of a ten day celebration of the Saint Maria Magdalena.  Each night neighborhoods from within the community come together to celebrate with incense, a procession, and fireworks. We walked under the brightly colored streamers up a hill to a large church with the same bright colors.    Outside of the church, a band began to play.  Young boys with cowbells tied around their wastes began to dance.  Soon, different groups of young men were hoisting floats into the air.  Each float contained the town symbol of the bull, fireworks attached to it, and various decorations.  One young man would wear the large box on his shoulders and spin in a circle while his friends would gather around cheering.  The doors of the church opened and a new group of people joined the crowd.  Candle and incense holders walked out of the church first, followed by a group of young girls carrying the Saint on a mini-float, followed by a mariachi band.  The bull floats let out a shout and made their way into the streets while still spinning. The rest of the processional and all of the crowd melted into the celebration.  We joined the processional through the streets.  We walked past food vendors and more musicians.  The music of trumpets, violins, and guitars mixed in with cowbells jingling and shouts from people.  The incense floated just above the group filling the air with a fog.  As we made our way down the streets, people stood on patios and stuck their heads out of their windows.  We swayed with the group until it made its way into another church to rest the saint until tomorrow night. 

July 14 - Passing Time

Today we made our way from Veracruz to Xalapa.  On the way, we stopped in the small town of Antigua to see the first landing spot of Hernan Cortez, Spanish conquistador in the early 1500s.  Once we arrived in Xalapa we visited the Museum of Anthropology. 

What did I notice? 

Antigua’s unintentional, historical treehouse = We arrived at the port where Hernan Cortez first arrived in Mexico.  Soon after Cortez’s arrival, the check-in point for materials and people moved to another site.  In this original spot, the trees have remained stronger than the buildings of the port.  Parts of the buildings still stand, including window frames to peek through and half walls to climb over.  While time has caused the walls to crumble, the trees have grown into and around the building, taking it over.  The roots stretch up and out of the ground to hug the deteriorating walls.  Glimpses of the choral used to make the original building appear between branches.  

The Anthropology Museum - Our afternoon brought us face to face with the great stone Olmec heads which were probably created between the years 300 and 900.  The space of the museum is an open floor with artifacts comfortably spaced out in chronological order.  The museum stretched to outdoor gardens containing more of the statues.  As we walked through the museum, I couldn’t help but think of all of the characters we passed in the stone faces.  I’m sure I passed a Bart Simpson look-alike and Fiona of Shrek face.

whispering to an Olmec head

What connections can I make?

Storytelling - I get caught up in thinking about what kind of character the real Hernan Cortez was and who these different stone figures really are.  I would love to ask my students to sit in the historical treehouse and write a story about what they think would happen, or have them plop down next to one of the Olmec statues and give a story ot that character.  

July 13 - Taking Veracruz Time

I think most people would agree that the pace of American life tends to be pretty fast.  People who know me would probably say I’m very good at filling my schedule and pretty terrible at down time.  In his book, The Geography of Bliss, Eric Weiner points out the benefits of taking life at a slower pace than is typical in America.  So, I’m trying to embrace the pace of Mexico.  

What have I noticed?

Yesterday we stopped at Tlacotalpan for lunch and time to “explore the city”.  Tlacotalpan is a small city on the Papaloapan river.  It is also a quiet city, without a lot of traffic, few street vendors, and little commotion.  There was not a pyramid or mountain to climb.  There wasn’t a huge variety of places to eat.  While I tend to be optimistic about new places, I did wonder what we would do to maximize the three hours from our busy schedule in this town.  So, a few of us started to stroll.  We slowly walked  through the streets and noticed the buildings.  Though there was little traffic, the streets had personality.  Bright color combinations changed with each new set of pillars.  Rod iron decorated doors and shielded windows.  Two horses waited, unattended or tied up in front of a pale blue church in the city square.  This could be the setting for a story and we had a couple of hours to absorb it. 

Today was a rainy day in Veracruz.  We started our day by picking up a teacher and some of her students to go on a tour of the Fortress of San Juan de Ulua.  After the tour, we made our way to have lunch together.  It was a Veracruz paced lunch.  We sat down and waited for our drink orders to be taken.  Then, we waited for our lunch orders to be taken.  I ate all of the chips.  I waited some more.  Our lunch came and we ate slowly.  We waited for coffee orders to be taken.  I might try to blame my impatience on being trained to eat lunch, help students, and check my email in 25 minutes throughout the school year or the fact that I get really hungry a lot.  Whatever the reason, I think I can learn a little from Veracruz time.  I was sitting next to a fifteen year-old girl from a public school in the area. She told me about what she thinks makes a good teacher, how she would like to improve school, and what she wants to do after high school.  We talked about the challenges that students face and how she was a little nervous about meeting us.  She let me practice my Spanish and she practiced her English.  Our lunch was a pretty good use of my time.